Back to basics for Terian folks
Published on: Sunday, November 10, 2019
By: Lorena Binisol
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They are happy with the river providing fish as food; with overflowing natural spring water so fresh, clean and clear; forest that gives enough food, the sunlight that delivers rays to dry their laundry; the breeze that cools their morning activities – and most of all the land that had given them a humble place to dwell for seven generations.
A visit to Kg Tundaki Dolungan, Terian in Penampang, with its rough terrain and rocky streams will surely irk first-time visitors. Although it only takes about an hour to reach there from Donggongon township, it feels like ages due to the bad condition.
The bumpy road would leave you worried that your vehicle may overturn. It would make you wonder how the villagers managed to bear the rigours of the journey to Donggongon township to get their essential supplies.
For resident Justina Piloh, 42, this land is a legacy and heritage of seven generations which she wouldn’t trade for anything else in the world.
However, disturbing thoughts crosses her mind, as she had heard rumours that they may be evicted from the ancestral land for the construction of the dam.
Another resident seems to take an optimistic attitude saying, “We will continue with our traditional way of planting hill paddy which our forefathers had done for seven generations.”
And on the day when she said it, it was the day of ‘Mogonsok’ for them.
‘Mogonsok’ is an activity where they punch holes in the soil to plant grains of rice; it goes on from early morning till midday, stopping only for lunch and a bit of rest before continuing to cover the remaining two acres of land.
She was assisted by her brother, Thomas, relatives Poul Vitalis, Leo Boulu, Daimond Sampur, Biniol Yagung and a friend, Martina Libasa.
“You must be adept at climbing the slopes of the hill, or else you will roll down into the ravine,” warned Justina.
When dusk arrives, everyone stops and get a good rest till the next day.
As for dinner, some volunteers went into the nearby forest to get some wild vegetables, while others cast their nets into the river, hoping for a good catch.
One of the delicacies is chicken cooked with palm shoots for soup. The palm shoot is called ‘Tivak’ (a Kadazan word), which tastes sweet and soft when eaten raw.
The process of getting ‘Tivak’ is laborious; one has to cut into the inside of the trunk to get to the shoot which is nowadays done with a chainsaw, a task undertaken by the women.
Justina and Dora, another relative, brought the writer to get the ‘Tivak’. It was hard work indeed, felling one palm tree, skinning the trunk layer by layer until it reaching the middle part which is the softest and sweetest.
Everyone ate sumptuously, sharing the one dish they had with platefuls of hot rice.
At night, the only entertainment is getting boozed up on the locally brewed spirit with whatever leftover food from dinner. While some are merry-making, other visitors are already in bed resting, it was just only 7pm!
As it is pitched dark in the night and there is no electricity, reading a book is a daunting task.
Sleeping on the mat laid down on the bamboo floors was a new experience for the visitors who were used to sleeping on proper beds with mattresses. Most of them were tossing and turning throughout the night while bitten by mites.
As for the writer, she did not have restful night, constantly bitten by whatever bugs in the vicinity. Despite the discomfort, the cool night breeze provided a comforting relief.
Usually before retiring for the night, Justina together with the others would check the fish traps placed at the river to see if there is any catch for the next day’s meal.
Dawn in Terian is a soul soothing experience as one sees rays of light breaking through the mists covering the tree tops in the forest. As the sun rises, the light breaks through the canopy of clouds brightening the surroundings.
An orchestra in nature comes into being, birds chirping, cicadas shrilling, squirrels jumping from branch to branch, plus the sound of household wakening to life of the day.
Normal daily village life would be like that, nothing fancy, very simple; they get up happily doing their ‘Tabasan’ work (field work). When tired, they rest for a meal, and repeat the cycle of life day after day.
Dolin Kayung, a driver and resident of Kg Terian Satu, is adamant that the lifestyle in Terian remain as it is albeit with modern amenities provided by the authorities.
Despite the fears that Kg Terian may disappear under the waters of the proposed dam project, nevertheless, he is confident that the inhabitants, about 200 of them, are in one accord to hold on to the village and its way of life.
Despite the disadvantages in the village, Dolin had successfully raised all his nine children to have good careers, some are teachers, nurses and administrators.
He is also a very experienced driver who has memorised every turns and bents in the gradient of the track. One feels safe when he is the one handling the vehicle.
Surprisingly, the drivers of vehicles showed good manners and courtesy to other drivers when a vehicle meet and cross each other, drivers would stop, exchange small chats and, perhaps, the gossips of the day.
To the writer, this was a scene that had an impact on her, as she is well acquainted with the ill-mannered driving and behaviour of road users in the city.
Justina is a work-oriented person. She is always busy performing tasks and other jobs wherever she is in her plot of land.
She attributed all her skills in making use of scarce resources in the village to her parents, Piloh Gontuk (father) and Liduin Gerudim (mother), both who have passed on.
“You actually do not need an academic education but you need survival skills to live in the surrounding like this.
“You must be quick to handle whatever is before you and to use whatever nearby resources to solve an issue or a situation,” Justina said.
Hygiene used to be a problem in the village, but visitors to the village have taught them the basic rudiments of building proper toilets, collection points for water and to teach general hygiene.
Martina Libasa, who frequented the place, had impacted the villagers in one way or another by sharing the awareness and the importance of hygiene to them.
“I insisted that they built toilets and proper sink for washing, otherwise I wouldn’t be able to come here often to help with planting crops,” said Martina, who patiently injected the importance of hygiene in their life.
The writer had a unique instant of experiencing a loose bowel one morning. Justina came to the rescue. She dug a few pieces of roots from nearby and prepared a concoction which she boiled and gave it to the writer. It then relieved the discomfort.
If it had not been for Justina, the writer would have been releasing her gripes all day. She was still in wonderment as to why she was the only one of the party who had to experience that agonising moment.
It could be something that she ate during dinner that did not agree with her stomach.
Meanwhile, one of the amazing sights is to see children running carefree, a sight that one does not often see in the suburbs of Kota Kinabalu.
They were chasing butterflies, running naked, jumping into the river, wading into the streams, catching tadpoles, plucking chillies, imitating their elders by pretending to plant rice and playing with dogs.
One of the efforts made by Martina is her plot of pineapple where she cleared a patch of land to accommodate 200 pineapple seedlings. She is nurturing them to maturity and when the fruits come into full bloom, she intends to sell them and that will be one of her source of income.
Incidentally, Martina is the local “immigrant” to the kampung, however, she plans to settle in this village and would be building a small house for herself.
Her experience made her realise that one does not need to possess a lot of material things to be contented in life.
“We don’t need to possess material things but only the basic necessity to get us by on a daily basis to lead a contented life.”
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