Penampang’s museum with a difference

Published on: Sunday, January 24, 2021

By: Lorena Binisol

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James explaining the meaning behind the signage on the stones at the cemetery area near the museum in Pogunon.

JUST like the famed Museum of Jars in Laos, Sabah also boasts a unique open-air museum that is both culturally and historically significant in a little village called Kg Pogunon in Penampang. It is an ancient cemetery site and the museum was built as part of the historical and cultural spot for visitors.

The Pogunon Ancient Cemetery Site started operation in April 2009 and used to receive many visitors – foreign and locals alike. There is no fee or charge imposed.

According to its supervisor, James Dingon, they used to receive as many as 400 visitors per month. However, the number went down tremendously after they reopened to public in June 13, last year, because of the MCO as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic.

When they re-opened the museum in June, only a handful of visitors came, a discouraging number, he said.

“We used to receive about 400 visitors per month from all walks of life – ranging from historians, researchers, enthusiasts, students from universities, local high schools, visitors from abroad and locals.

“This place holds much valuable information dating back centuries, where merchants from China voyaged to the Borneo island bringing all kinds of things such as ceramic jars, plates, crocks, dishware and other ornaments for barter trading with the local people here then,” said James.

He said the public need not worry when visiting the historical site to gain general knowledge and insights as the Covid SOP is strictly observed.

There are many huge ceramic jars displayed inside the museum believed to be the burial jars of those who hold high status in Kadazan society then.

James said the first four jars were discovered when the village kindergarten was erected which is near the existing museum. The jars were put on display at the Pogunon museum after much examination and curating done at the Sabah State museum.

The ceramic jars were believed to be from the Yuan (1271-1368) and Ming (1368-1644) periods.

“The importance of the site was revealed in January 2000 during the construction of the Pogunon Kindergarten building. Three jars and pieces of a fourth jar, some blue and white plates and bowls were discovered. Human bones were also found inside the three jars.”

It was said that the ceramics originated from China between the 16th and 19th centuries respectively,” James said.

Just next to the museum is a cemetery with vertical stones as grave markers.

James said some of the deceased were Bobohizans or high priestesses who were important people in their time.

“Remembrance comes in many forms. In the case of these high priestesses, they were buried and indicated with certain signage carved on the stone itself.

“Other deceased were believed to be merchants from other areas who did not manage to go back and died in the village.

“There are a lot more intriguing stories many would like to know, but you need to visit this museum. I believe each individual will experience differently from another,” James said.

He recalled a family from Europe who came to visit and their 10-year old daughter experiencing some strange phenomenon. She began yelling in hysteria and described how the deceased looked like when they were alive centuries ago.

Another group of visitors also felt the presence of other forces when they toured the site.

On another occasion, a visitor pointed to James, saying “someone” was following him all the time. “But there was no one behind me,” said James.

“As for me, I am working here and whenever I feel uneasy, I would just recite a prayer and whisper to whoever it is not to disturb me,” said James.

He said there are many more stories and the team is still checking on the authenticity with the elderly who are still alive on certain incidents in the past.

Joe Sulaiman, a resident there, said some of those buried at the site were ancestors of the current generations living in the village.

He said most of the Kadazan people living in Penampang have Chinese connection because Chinese merchants travelled from mainland China to Borneo.

According to records in the British North Borneo Herald, the Chinese began to move into Penampang in significant numbers in the 1920s and were initially opposed by the locals who complained to the chartered company administration.

However, over a period of time they were accepted through intermarriages and some of the locals even adopted some of the Chinese practices like praying to Chinese deities.

“Most of our ancestors were buried at the site. Almost all the present generation living in Pogunon have Chinese connection. My mother came from Wong descendant while my father’s side came from Ah Song descendant.

“This is evident because of the previous activities where people from China came to Borneo to have barter-trading business, and as a result they stayed on to live here till they died,” said Joe.

James hoped more people would visit the museum to understand the past.

Interest or curiosity towards some things must come from within self, he said.

“It is good to come and visit this place to gain some insights as well as experience for yourself certain phenomena, if so.

“After all, those buried here are our ancestors,” James said.