Daily Express Subscriber
Sign in to your account.

IN the heart of Keningau district, where diverse communities coexist and the Murut people remain deeply rooted, tradition continues to shape everyday life in quiet but meaningful ways.

Here, culture is not confined to ceremonies or museums. It lives in objects, rituals and food passed down through generations – from heirloom jars that carry stories of warriors and status, to Siopon, a traditional rice-based drink that marks life’s most important milestones.

For the Murut community, Siopon is more than a beverage. Made from rice and yeast, it is carefully prepared and left to ferment in large earthen jars for weeks before it is ready. It is not consumed casually, but reserved for significant occasions such as engagements, weddings and communal celebrations.

At a recent engagement between a Murut-Dusun bride and an outsider, Siopon was served as a symbol of unity between cultures and pride in Murut heritage – a gesture that continues to hold deep cultural meaning.

Liza Angin, 53, from Kampung Biah in Sook, learned the craft from her mother, Viline Treza Lius, 74, who had been making Siopon for decades before stopping due to health reasons. Determined to preserve the tradition, Liza and her siblings have taken on the responsibility of continuing the practice.

“Every household must have a ‘tajau’,” Liza said, referring to the large traditional jars used to store food and ferment drinks. “It has many uses and is considered essential in every native household here. It is also one of the ‘hantaran’ (gifts) in marriage ceremonies.”

These jars are more than functional objects. Oral histories recall that some ‘tajau’ once fetched prices as high as RM10,000, with ownership often reflecting social status within the community.

Liza remembers her mother describing a time when serving *Siopon* was as customary as offering coffee.

“In the early days, whenever visitors came, ‘Siopon’ was a must,” she said.

Traditionally consumed through bamboo straws, the drink is now prepared mainly for special occasions. Serving it to guests remains a gesture of respect and hospitality, welcoming them into the family and community.

The process of making ‘Siopon’ is both simple and meticulous. Rice is first cooked and cooled on a mat before yeast is added. The mixture is then stored in a ‘tajau’ to ferment. After about three weeks, it is ready – with longer fermentation producing a stronger flavour.

Liza’s older sister, Tina, has been making the drink for decades, primarily for family use, ensuring the knowledge continues within the household.

Beyond ‘Siopon, other cultural elements remain visible across Keningau. In some business areas, traditional jars are still displayed as decorative pieces, drawing attention while quietly reflecting their enduring cultural significance.

Food, too, tells a story of cultural exchange. One such dish is Kepurung, made from sago and mixed with local vegetables, often served as a hearty soup when entertaining guests.

According to Petricia, 55, another of Liza’s sisters, the dish has roots beyond Sabah.

“It originally came from neighbouring Indonesia,” she said. “Migrants brought it here many years ago, and over time we adapted it into what we have today. It is delicious and nutritious because of the vegetables.”

Keningau’s identity is also tied to its natural and historical roots. The district’s name is believed to be derived from “Koningau,” the local term for the cinnamon tree, which once grew abundantly in the area and was later cultivated for trade.

Long-time resident Wilson Gan noted that the tree played a role in shaping the district’s early economy, reflecting the community’s close relationship with its natural environment.

Traces of history are also evident in landmarks such as St. Francis Xavier Church, which stands prominently in the town centre – a reminder of Keningau’s colonial past and the enduring role of faith in the community.

Modern development has since reshaped parts of the township. Buildings have risen, and cafés and eateries now line the streets. Yet, familiar landmarks like Hotel Juta continue to stand out, regarded by many locals as the district’s first and most iconic hotel.

Despite these changes, tradition remains firmly intact.

During important occasions, Siopon in its earthen jar still takes pride of place – a symbol of continuity in a rapidly modernising world.

“As an important cultural aspect, it should not be forgotten,” the Angin family said. “The roots of Murut tradition began with Siopon in the early days.”

For them, the responsibility now lies with the younger generation – to understand, appreciate and carry forward these practices, ensuring that the heritage of the Murut people continues to thrive alongside modern life.