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NO Kaamatan is complete without brewing the renowned local beverage, tapai. At the Kampung Sandapak village hall in Keningau, women have been diligently preparing rice that was fermented overnight with yeast, known locally as ‘laru’, in the run-up to the occasion recently.

The rice is carefully placed in a tajau (traditional pot) to undergo the next fermentation process for about 30 days.

The process is carried out in a calm and disciplined manner, as if every touch is not just handwork, but a cultural trust passed down from generation to generation.

In this day and age, this traditional activity is still surrounded by unique customs and traditional beliefs. During this important process, several conditions are still strictly observed. There should be no loud talking or arguing, as it is believed to affect the “emotion” of the tapai.

There must also be no drowsiness or carelessness. This is said to help maintain the “spirit” and quality of the product. Eating lime or sour foods is also discouraged, as it is feared this may cause the tapai to become overly sour.

Instead, the process should be carried out with a calm heart, a harmonious atmosphere and a spirit of togetherness.

If all the conditions are observed, the result is not just an ordinary traditional drink. A good tapai produces a unique taste — sweet with a subtle bitterness, a seductive aroma, and a warm feeling that “livens up the atmosphere”.

Traditionally, there is also a light-hearted saying within the community that tapai can make people suddenly become good at “speaking English”, while also bringing out hidden talents for singing and dancing.

The expression is not meant literally, but serves as a metaphor for the atmosphere of joy and social confidence that emerges during festive celebrations.

Tapai was served to guests in conjunction with the upcoming Kampung Sandapak Kaamatan Festival as a symbol of gratitude for the harvest, community unity, and the continuity of cultural heritage.

In those seemingly ordinary hands, something extraordinary is actually being brewed – not just tapai, but the memory, identity and soul of a community.

In a world increasingly driven by technology and AI, there are traditions that cannot be rushed – they must be patiently fermented, like tapai itself. Because sometimes, what is most intoxicating is not the drink, but the memories contained within.